International media likes to portray Japan as a quirky country, with strange fads and colorful subcultures here and there. In reality, most of these so-called “fads” aren’t trendy at all, but appeal only to a niche audience. (Some even turned out to be hoaxes that foreign media fell for or outright made up.) Chances are, the average Japanese might not have even heard of these “fads,” or may not know much about them. Nevertheless, if you want to see the quirkier things and phenomena in Tokyo, we’re here to help.
If anime, manga, and games are your thing, you probably already know that Akihabara is your mecca, but if you have time, head to Ikebukuro and Nakano as well. Ikebukuro has Otome Road, and while it’s more female-oriented, it should still be an enjoyable shopping experience for males. Besides, the flagship store of anime merchandise chain Animate is in Ikebukuro, and so is the official Evangelion store. Nakano is home to Nakano Broadway, where you can find lots of collectible merchandise and figures.
Photo by Suguru Yamamoto used under CC
Some franchises are popular enough to get their own establishments. The Pokemon Centers around Tokyo are a good example, and Pikachu’s even popular enough to warrant a summer parade in Minato Mirai, Yokohama featuring an army of Pikachus. It was originally meant to be a one-time thing in August 2014, but due to popular demand, it’ll be held again in 2015 and might become a regular event. There’s also the huge Gundam statue at Diver City, Odaiba (also home to the Gundam Front Museum). At the foot of Tokyo Tower, closest to Akabanebashi Station, is the One Piece Tower, a theme park for the hit series One Piece. J-World in Ikebukuro’s Sunshine City is a theme park dedicated to manga serialized in Shonen Jump. Meanwhile, fans of Square-Enix’s games should visit Artnia, where you can buy official merchandise and enjoy themed food and drinks. Shinjuku also has a Capcom Bar. If you’re into tokusatsu series (the Super Sentai and Kamen Rider franchises, specifically), there’s a museum in Chiba called Toei Hero World, although adults may feel out of place, as tokusatsu’s Japanese fanbase is mainly kids.
Photo by Tiffany Lim
So you want to cosplay in Japan? Contrary to what some think, it’s not exactly a socially acceptable hobby. Still, there’s a right time and place to cosplay. Some examples of such events are the biannual Comiket, which is an event for doujinshi, or fanmade comics; the biannual Wonder Festival, an event for figure collectors; Tokyo Game Show in late September; and Anime Japan in late March. There are also smaller cosplay-only events held in and around Korakuen’s Tokyo Dome City, the amusement park Toshimaen in Nerima, and in and around Sunshine City. Otherwise, if you want a fantastic backdrop to go with your photos, you can always rent a cosplay studio, a popular one being Hacostadium, which has branches in Ikebukuro, Chiba Prefecture’s Minami-Funabashi, and Kanagawa Prefecture’s Kawasaki.
Just keep in mind that cosplay events in Japan tend to have strict rules, and many actually have restrictions on skimpy costumes (though some cosplayers seem to exploit loopholes in the wording) and large props. You’re also not allowed to arrive at or leave the venue in costume, as the Japanese cosplay community is quite protective of their reputation and doesn’t want cosplayers possibly causing trouble outside of events. Many events will also designate certain areas where you’re allowed to wander around and/or pose for photos. If you’re a photographer, some cosplayers (usually the ones in smaller events, as those are more niche, whereas it’s expected that at big events like Comiket, there will be crowds) might decline requests for photos, but don’t take it personally, as they’re not obliged to pose for you. Remember that cosplay is not consent!
The Kanamara Matsuri (Festival of the Steel Phallus) is a small event in Kawasaki City’s Wakamiya Hachimangu Shrine. Many Japanese are unaware of this event, but it’s the opposite for many foreigners. There are more foreigners than Japanese at this festival! The main attractions here are 3 phalluses on portable shrines that are paraded around town, and side attractions include genitalia-shaped candy, a radish-carving contest (guess what shape you have to carve them into!), wooden phalluses that visitors are welcome to ride (at the expense of your privacy - expect lots of people with cameras!), and genitalia-related paraphernalia. While this festival is wacky, it has traditional origins as a fertility festival and a celebration of the time when, according to legend, a blacksmith helped a woman defeat a demon living in her nether regions by tricking it into chomping on a steel phallus. Nowadays, it’s a fundraiser for HIV research and an LGBT-friendly festival.
Photo by Guilhem Vellut used under CC
Have you heard of the 7-storey sex shop? That exists - it’s called M’s: Pop Life, and it’s in Akihabara. Some have found it disappointing, though, as the shop is actually quite narrow and hard to move around in when there are more customers than usual. While M’s has the most extensive selection, there are other sex shops around Tokyo, such as in Kabukicho, Akihabara, and Shibuya’s Dogenzaka area. Harajuku even has one out in the open: Condomania, though it hardly has anything other than condoms. While you’re at it, visit a love hotel; some of their themed rooms have very… interesting decor and fixtures, to say the least.
For women who want to shop in a female-friendly atmosphere, visit Love Piece Club in Bunkyo-ku, a tiny shop where men aren’t allowed to visit unless accompanied by a woman, and the all-female staff are happy to give recommendations. Also, Shibuya has a vibrator bar called The Vibe Bar Wild One, where you can see and touch (but not use) over 350 vibrators over some drinks, and even buy some from their shop. Men are also not allowed to visit unaccompanied by a woman.
If you want to flirt with hosts and hostesses, Kabukicho, Roppongi, and Dogenzaka have several such clubs. Beware, though: these clubs can be extremely expensive, and even if initial costs may not seem to be so, these establishments are clever at finding ways to keep you spending, whether it’s a lot of drinks during your first and last visit, or persuading you to make repeat visits. Not only can these be risky, but they’re also not a cheapo option.
Tokyo has a number of cafes that may not be much in terms of food, but compensate by giving you an experience. There are the animal cafes, which started with cat cafes (the most prolific kind of animal cafe out there). Now, there are also rabbit, penguin, bird, dog, and snake cafes.
Photo by Guilhem Vellut used under CC
As for maid cafes, Akihabara is where it all started, so it’s unsurprising that it has a high concentration of those, with the most famous ones being @home and Maidreamin, both of which have perky, cutesy maids. (Maidreamin has become popular enough to branch out of Akihabara.) Cure Maid Cafe, the one that started it all, has a different ambiance, though - it’s subdued and quiet, and you can’t even take souvenir photos with the maids. Wonder Parlour is a maid and butler cafe in Ikebukuro with the same quiet ambiance. You can also find offshoots of the maid cafe, such as Akihabara’s railway attendant-themed Little TGV.
For the ladies, Ikebukuro has the Swallowtail butler cafe, where you can have tea and cake in a classy setting (but not for a cheap price!) and an all-boys-music-academy-themed cafe called St. Giuliano’s. If you want to be treated like a princess by foreign men, go to Butlers Cafe in Shibuya.
Photo by David Pursehouse used under CC
Other themed cafes and restaurants to try are The Lock-Up and Alcatraz ER, both in Shibuya, which are creepy prison-themed restaurants (although Alcatraz is a hybrid of a prison and an asylum/hospital); the Vampire Cafe in Ginza; the European-themed Christon Cafe in Shinjuku; Ninja Akasaka; the Alice in Wonderland-themed Alice’s Fantasy Restaurant in Ginza; and Moomin Cafe, where lone customers get cuddly characters to keep them company.
Aside from the giant Gundam, you can see robots (and bikini-clad dancers) at the dazzling Robot Restaurant in Shinjuku. It’s a psychedelic and energetic show, that’s for sure, but it’s also rather pricey, although many hotels and tour agencies now offer discounted tickets. Its predominantly foreign audience should tell you that this is a very touristy thing to do.
For a more subdued robot experience, though, visit ASIMO, a humanoid robot, at Honda’s Welcome Plaza in Aoyama, where he demonstrates his abilities twice (on weekdays) or thrice (on weekends) a day - for free! Also, in May 2015, a robot receptionist, Chihira Aico, was temporarily assigned to Mitsukoshi in Nihonbashi. Although she’s going places to show off her skills, look out for her, as - who knows - she might just be back for good someday!
Photo by MsSaraKelly used under CC
Recently, Godzilla was declared to be a resident of Tokyo and a tourism ambassador, a far cry from its reputation as a destroyer of Tokyo! You can see it peeking out from the Toho Building in Shinjuku.
Harajuku is where the fashionistas play, but “Harajuku fashion” is a bit misleading, because you can’t pin different fashion subcultures down to a single look. Contrary to popular misconception, most of the dressed-up people there are not cosplayers, as cosplay involves portraying a particular character. Also, while Harajuku is indeed a trendy place, there are only a few that specialize in subcultural fashion such as Lolita (e.g. Bodyline), mori (e.g. Wonder Rocket), visual kei, gyaru, and so on. Since Lolita clothing can be quite pricey, you can buy them second-hand at Closet Child, which also has branches in Ikebukuro, Shinjuku, and Shibuya. Alternatively, you can be a Lolita for a few hours at Maison de Julietta, also in Harajuku, for about 10,779 yen.
Photo by Tiffany Lim.
Meiji Bridge was known as a place where you could see fashionistas and cosplayers on Sundays, but many stopped hanging out there after getting too much attention (sometimes unwanted) from tourists. They weren’t there to be seen, but to hang out, after all. While seeing fashionistas around Meiji Bridge is a rarity now (it’s mostly tourists there), you can still people in interesting outfits going around Harajuku on Sundays. Some would be happy to pose for photos, but some might not - again, just respect their wishes, however cool they may look! You might even see an Internet celebrity known as Sailor Fuku Ojisan - an old man dressed in a schoolgirl uniform. He’s a much more adorable sight than it sounds, and he’s also quite charming and nice!
Photo by Joanne and Matt used under CC